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一从蒙马特开始(第1页)

章节目录保存书签

一、从蒙马特开始

出乎意料,整个巴黎不足五千辆出租车,在巴黎找出租车与北京一样不方便。大街、小巷、近郊、远郊,搜尽风光打草稿,我的活动量大,主要只能依靠地铁,巴黎的地铁复杂而方便,我头一个夜晚彻底重温了地铁路线图,四十年来路线基本未改,车站如故,只大部分车厢更新了,但许多车厢被“艺术家”涂画得一塌糊涂,连许多交通图也被涂改,洋流氓居心叵测。

我首先奔向蒙马特,那尤脱利罗笔底的巴黎,全世界艺术家心中的麦加。曲折倾斜的坡上窄街风貌依旧,错落门窗还似昔日秋波,街头游人杂沓,奇异服饰与不同肤色点染了旅人之梦。豁然开朗一广场,这里便是最典型的卖画“圣地”,世界各国的艺人麇集,都打开各样的伞,遮雨亦遮阳,亦遮卖艺人内心的羞愧与创伤,他们拉客给画像,只为了法郎。四十年前的学生时代,我只到过一次这举世闻名的民间卖画广场(其实不广阔),那时年轻自傲,信奉艺术至上,又是公费留学生,暂无衣食之忧,看到同行们从事如此可怜的职业,近乎乞食者,感到无限心酸和无名凄怆,从此不愿再去看一眼这生活现实。时隔四十年,重上蒙马特依旧!依旧!此地并未换了人间。岂止蒙马特,岂止巴黎,在纽约街头、东京公园……我到处见到为路人画像以谋生的艺人、同行。莫迪里阿尼当年在咖啡店为人画像只索五个法郎,别人还不要,他兴之所至,往往就在铺桌子的纸垫上勾画有特色的人像。艺术,内心的流露;职业,适应客观需要的工作。两者本质完全不同,艺术创作原本绝非职业,谁愿雇用你一味抒发你自己的感情?但杰出的艺术品终将产生社会价值,无人雇用的梵高死了,其作品成了举世无价之宝。艺术家要生活,要职业,于是艺术家与职业之间发生了错综复杂的关系,艺术家有真伪,画商有善恶,彼此间或曾结一段良缘,或时时尔虞我诈。以画谋生,为人画像,为人厅堂配饰,必须先为人着想,得意或潦倒,各凭机遇。鬻画为生古今中外本质一致,只是当代愈来愈重视经济收益与经营方式,从巴黎和纽约的许多现代画廊出售的作品中去揣度时式和风尚吧,风尚时时变,苦煞未成名的卖艺人。回忆学生时代,上午在巴黎美术学院上完课,就近在学生食堂吃了饭,背着画箱便到大街小巷众多的画廊里巡看,注意新动向。画廊里多半是冷冷清清,少有顾客,除非某个较重要展出开幕时才有特邀的与捧场的来宾。如今画廊依然,但进门要按电钮开门,电钮的响声引起主人的注视:“先生、太太好!”“先生好!”彼此打过招呼,悄悄看画,心里有些不好意思,因往往仅仅只我和老伴两个客人,我们又绝非买画的主顾。宫花寂寞红,各式各样的作品少有知音。所谓作品,真伪参半,有虚张声势的,有忸怩作态的,有唬人的,有令人作呕的,当然也有颇具新意的、敏感的,但往往推敲提炼不够,粗犷掺杂粗糙,奔放坠入狂乱,扣人心弦者少见,标新立异的生存竞争中似乎不易听到艺术家宁静的心声。艺术进展与物质繁荣同步?今日纽约的不少高级画廊以出售法国印象派及其后的名家作品为荣,仿印象派的蹩脚作品更充斥美国画廊,当然美国有为的年轻一代画家已不肯圃于法兰西范畴,大胆创新,泼辣新颖,从整体看,正奔向新领域,从个别作品分析,理想的不多,缺内涵者总易予人外强中干之感。

高更的大型回顾展正在大皇宫展出,密密麻麻等待入场的观众排开长队,队伍围绕了半个大皇宫,要入场,须排队近两个小时。展出四个来月,从开幕至闭幕,每天从上午开馆到下午闭馆,队伍永远是这么长,我只能去排队,除非不看。专业者、业余爱好者、旅游者……来自世界各地的人们争着来瞻仰客死荒岛的画家的遗作,作品的色凝聚着作者的血,件件作品烙印着作者的思绪、时代的歌与泣。同时在大皇宫展出“五月沙龙”,从另一门入口,门庭冷落,进入展厅只三两个观众。“五月沙龙”亦属当代主要沙龙之一,何以如此失宠于观众!展品总是良莠不齐,有些作品虽不乏新观念,但效果或令人费解,或一目了然少含蕴,引人入胜或可望而不可即的具有高度艺术境界的作品确乎不多。作家抛却观众,观众便不看作品,相思断,恩情绝。问题绝不止于画廊与沙龙,试看博物馆或蓬皮杜中心,作品的沉浮都须经时间的考验,几代观众的考验。

章节目录

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