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02(第1页)

章节目录保存书签

02

奭龄是万历时人。可见在嘉隆以前,即素称繁庶的越中,仕宦阶级尚未有经营园亭的风气。园亭的缔构,除自己出资建置外,大抵多出于门生故吏的报效,顾公燮说:

前明搢绅虽素负清名者,其华屋园亭,佳城南亩,无不揽名胜,连阡陌。推原其故,皆系门生故吏代为经营,非尽出己资也。(55)

王世贞记南京名园,王公贵戚有太傅园,西园,魏公南园、西园,锦衣东园,万竹园,西园,徐锦衣家园,金盘李园,徐九宅园,莫愁湖园,同春园,凤台园,武定侯园;士人则有市隐园,武氏园,正贡士杞园,遯园,逸园,尔祝园,吴孝廉园,何参知露园,卜太学味斋园,许典客长卿园,李象先茂才园,许长卿新园,无射园,汤太守熙台园,陆文学园,方太学园,张保御园,李民小园,武文学园,太复新园,华林园等园。(56)娄东(太仓)一邑有田氏园,安氏园,王锡爵园,杨氏日涉园,吴氏园,季氏园,尝氏杜家桥园,王世贞弇州园,王士骐约园,琅玡离薋园,王敬美澹园等数十园。(57)北京则有米仲诏湛园,勺园,漫园,宣家园,清华园等名园。(58)全国名都大邑,都竞相建筑,园亭建筑学由之盛极一代,西洋教士东来后,将东方建筑意境带回欧洲,大大地影响了十七八世纪时代的欧洲园亭建筑。园中多凿水叠假山,郎瑛记:

近日富贵家之叠假山,是山之成也,自不能如真山之有生气,春夏且多蛇虺,而月夜不可乐也。(59)

张南垣至以叠石成名,为当时人造风景、园亭艺术专家,黄宗羲说:

三吴大家名园皆出其手。其后东至于越,北至于燕,召之者无虚日。(60)

对于饮食衣服,尤刻意求精,互相侈尚。正德时大臣宴会,赏赍庖役动至数百金。万历时张居正牙盘上食味逾百品,犹以为无下箸处。陶奭龄说:

近来人食酒席,专事华侈,非数日治具,水陆毕集,不敢轻易速客。汤饵者蔌,源源而来,非惟口不给尝,兼亦目不周视,一筵之费,少亦数金。(61)

“一簋之费数金,一日之供中产。”平居则“耽耽逐逐,日为以腹谋”。张岱自述:

越中清馋,无过余者。喜啖方物。北京则苹婆果,黄巤,马牙松。山东则羊肚菜,秋白梨,文官果,甜子。福建则福橘,福橘饼,牛皮糖,红腐乳。江西则青根,丰城脯。山西则天花菜。苏州则带骨鲍螺,山查丁,山查糕,松子糖,白圆,橄榄脯。嘉兴则马交鱼脯,陶庄黄雀。南京则套樱桃,桃门枣,地栗团,窝笋团,山查糖。杭州则西瓜,鸡豆子,花下藕,韭芽,元笋,塘栖蜜橘。萧山则杨梅,莼菜,鸠鸟,青鲫,方柿。诸暨则香狸,樱桃,虎栗。嵊则蕨粉,细榧,龙游糖。临海则枕头瓜。台州则瓦楞蚶,江瑶柱。浦江则火肉。东阳则南枣。山阴则破塘笋,谢橘,独山菱,河蟹,三江屯蛏,白蛤,江鱼,鲥鱼,里河鰦。远则岁致之,近则月致之,日致之。(62)

“家常宴会,但留心烹饪。庖厨之精,遂甲江左。”(63)争奇斗巧,普通的做法不足以标新立异,于是别出蹊径,惨杀物命:

京师……宰杀牲畜,多以惨酷取味,鹅鸭之属,皆以铁笼罩之,炙之以火,饮以椒浆,毛尽脱落,未死而肉已熟矣。驴羊之类,皆活割取其肉,有肉尽而未死者,冤楚之状,令人不忍见闻……巨珰富戚,转相效尤,血海肉林,恬不为意。(64)

在这风气之下,专讲饮食烹调的食谱、茶谱、酒谱便成为这阶级的流行著作,饮食口腹之学也成为专门之学了。

同样衣服也由布而紬绢,由浅色而淡红。隆万时范濂说:

布袍乃儒家常服,迩年鄙为寒酸,贫者必用紬绢色衣,谓之薄华丽,而恶少且从典肆中觅旧殷旧服,翻改新起,与豪华公子列坐,亦一奇也。春元必穿大红履,儒童年少者必穿浅红道袍,上海生员冬必服绒道袍,暑必用鬃巾绿伞,虽贫如思丹,亦不能免。稍富则绒衣巾盖益加盛矣。(65)

巾帽则变易更多,花样翻新,不可究诘。范濂又记:

余始为诸生时,见朋辈戴桥梁绒线巾,春元戴金线巾,搢绅戴忠靖巾。自后以为烦,俗易高士巾、素方巾,复变为唐巾、晋巾、汉巾、褊巾,丙午(1546)以来,皆用不唐不晋之巾,两边玉屏花一对。而少年貌美者加犀玉奇簪贯发。综巾始于丁卯(1567)以后,其制渐高,今又渐易。盈纱巾为松江上产,志所载者,今又有马尾罗巾、高淳罗巾,而马尾罗者与综巾似已乱真矣。童生用方包巾,自陈继儒出,用两飘带束顶,边亦去之,用吴门直罗头法,而狷儿更觉雅俏。瓦楞综帽在嘉靖初年惟生员始带,至二十年外则富民用之,然亦仅见一二,价甚腾贵。皆尚罗帽、纻丝帽。故人称丝罗必曰帽缎……万历以来,不论贫富皆用综,价亦甚贱,有四五钱七八钱者,又有朗素密结等名。(66)

此外又有玉壶巾、明道巾、折角巾、东坡巾、阳明巾等名色。(67)妇女服饰,正德时多用璎珞:

正德元年(1506)妇女多用珠结盖头,谓之璎珞。(68)

嘉靖以后则愈趋繁杂,范濂说:

妇人头髻在隆庆初年,皆尚圆褊,顶用宝花,谓之挑心,两边用捧鬓,后用满冠倒插,两耳用宝嵌大环,年少者用头箍,缀以圆花方块。身穿裙袄,袄用大袖圆领,裙有销金拖。自后翻出挑尖顶髻,鹅胆心髻,渐见长圆,并去前饰,皆尚雅装,梳头如男人直罗,不用分发鬓髻,髻皆后垂,又名堕马髻,旁插金玉梅花一二对,前用金铰丝灯笼簪,两边用西番莲稍簪插两三对,发眼中用犀玉大簪横贯一二枝,后用点翠卷荷一朵,旁加翠花一朵大如手掌,装缀明珠数颗,谓之鬓边,花插两鬓边,又谓之飘枝花。耳用珠嵌金玉丁香。衣用三领窄袖,长三尺余,如男人穿褶,仅露裙二三寸。梅条裙拖,膝裤拖初尚刻丝,又尚本色,尚画,尚插绣,尚堆纱,近又尚大红绿绣,如藕莲裙之类,而披风便服并其梅条去之矣。(69)

髻则愈后愈高,董含说:

余为诸生时,见妇人梳髻高三寸许,号为新样。年来渐高至六七寸,蓬松光润,谓之壮丹头,皆用假发衬垫,其垂至不可举首。又仕官家或辫发螺髻珠宝错落,乌靴秃秃,貂皮抹额,闺阁风流,不堪过目,而彼自以为逢时之制也。(70)

生活上的穷奢极欲,再进一步便是狎妓。唐宋以来的官妓,到明初仍沿其制,刘玉记:

(南京)江东门外,洪武间建轻烟、淡粉、梅妍、翠柳四楼,令官妓居之,以接四方贵客大贾,及士大夫休沐时往游焉。后士大夫多耽酒悦色废事,渐加制限。(71)

胡纳亦记:

台、温二郡,经方氏籍据之后,全乖人道。其地多倡家,中朝使者以事至,多挟倡饮,有司疲于供应。熊君鼎为浙佥事,下永嘉令籍倡家数千,悉械送之京。(72)

至宣德三年(1428)左都御史刘观挟妓宴饮被斥,《明史》记:

时未有官妓之禁,宣德初臣僚宴乐,以奢相尚,歌妓满前。观私纳贿赂,诸御史亦贪纵无忌。(73)

次年复有萧翔等挟妓废事案:

七月丙寅,给事中贾谅、张居杰劾奏行在户部郎中萧翔等不理职务,日惟挟妓酣饮恣乐。命悉下之狱。上谓尚书夏原吉等曰:饮酒人之常情,朕未尝禁。但君子当以廉耻相尚,倡优贱人,岂宜亵狎。近颇闻此风盛行,如刘观辈尤甚,每趁人邀请,辄以妓自随,此辈仿效,若流而不返,岂不大坏礼俗。大臣者小臣之表也,卿当以朕此言偏谕之。(74)

一月后政府遂申令禁约,现任官不许狎妓:

章节目录

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